On November 1st, our terrific group returned from the long-awaited Jewish heritage trip to Portugal, organized by J² Adventures. Our journey began in Lisbon and ended in Porto, with a tour of the Douro Valley on land and river. This Jewish heritage trip to Portugal was a return to places where our ancestors lived and thrived before the Inquisition reached them. By 1496, the Inquisition emptied Jewish areas, stopped Jewish worship in grand and simple synagogues, and left the country void of important contributions by Jews. But our journey wasn’t only about remnants; it was also about emerging Jewish life that is thriving.

In Lisbon, the rabbi of Sha’arei Tikvah warmly welcomed us. The synagogue’s Holy Ark holds more than a dozen Torah scrolls, most of them kosher and all of them sacred. Their histories are told on their mantles, embroidered with Hebrew names and memories of congregants who were honored by their families who connected their names with Torah. The synagogue’s architecture reflects styles found in the Iberian Peninsula. With its Torah reading table in the middle and its balcony for women, the rabbi explained that they often erect a mechitzah—a partition separating men and women during worship—on the main floor, to create a fuller, more engaging worship experience.

The synagogue doesn’t face the street. When it was built, only churches were permitted to face the main roads. Instead, its entrance looks at another building, which allows for only a small courtyard in front. But along the courtyard wall are beautiful memorial stones engraved with the names of leaders of the Jewish community, including Yitzchak Rabin, a peacemaker in Israel.

Lisbon tells the story not only of Jewish demise and renewal, but also of Portugal rulers from monarchs and dictators to the republic that is enjoyed, today. It wasn’t until 1974 that Portugal’s people enjoyed freedom from its dictator in what many refer to as a “peaceful coup.” Today, signs of young family life are everywhere, street scenes and businesses are busy, and students cross paths with tourists angling to get a view of great buildings, monuments, and hillsides.

When we arrived in Porto, we made time for a riverboat tour of the Douro Valley’s breathtaking colors and views. Late October proved to be the perfect time to visit, with sunny days, cool temperatures, and changing leaves. The hills were terraced with vines and olive trees, revealing centuries-old traditions of tending, pruning, and harvesting. At a gorgeous winery, we had a tour, a delicious lunch, and tastes of wines and port.

Porto’s best tasting was Friday night with the progressive (Reform) synagogue, HaMakom. Many of its members joined us for worship. The congregation numbers approximately 300 individuals and is served by a visiting rabbi once each month. I had the privilege of leading the service and offered a word of Torah.

After traveling from Lisbon to Porto and discovering Jewish roots and remnants, HaMakom, which means “the place” and a reference to God, was proof that Judaism thrives even in places where it was tested and eliminated. As we learn, “We fall and we rise, again.” HaMakom and its people, warm and inviting, use the same prayerbook we use on Shabbat, welcome visitors, and are eager to own their own space for regular worship, gatherings, and holiday celebrations.

Unlike my travels to Israel where everything is bursting with Jewish life, ingenuity, and technology, Portugal holds traces of Jewish life, emerging signs of Jewish renewal, and budding signs of Jewish joy like we found in Porto. The trip was a crescendo of Judaism that peaked in Porto. Like other European cities that struggle to host Jewish communal life, Portugal’s cities honor their Jewish past and make room for a Jewish future. The number of Jewish Porto residents and ex-pats signals a brighter future born in our generation.

With thanks for all who joined me in Portugal, I also urge you to consider a trip to Israel with me, March 21-31, 2027. Though Israel bursts with Jewish life, its challenges are heavy, too. Being Jewish is my joy, but it comes with obligations to secure its future. This is our time to make a difference. This is our time to tell the world, “Hineini”—“Here I am”—to bear witness to Jewish life, past, present, and future.

Taken at Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal

L’Shalom,